The Custom Dress Shirt: Yarn, Weave, and Fit

In traditional shirtmaking, fabrics are divided into single-ply and two-fold (2-ply) yarns. For a 2-ply cloth, two long-staple single threads are twisted tightly together into one resilient yarn before weaving begins. That construction delivers three distinct advantages: first, white shirts gain true opacity so undershirts and skin tone never show through in daylight; second, collar edges and cuffs resist abrasion for years; third, the cloth develops a cool, silky handfeel.

On our signature White Twill Non-Iron and Light Blue Twill Non-Iron shirtings, that diagonal 2-ply Egyptian cotton is treated with a natural crease-recovery finish containing zero synthetic polyester. The shirt breathes like pure cotton while using your natural body heat to relax creases throughout the day. Washed at 30 to 40°C on a gentle spin (600 to 800 rpm) and hung wet on a hanger, it dries smooth and ready to wear.

For daily business tailoring and travel, White Twill Non-Iron (FSH010), Light Blue Twill Non-Iron (FSH011), and White Herringbone (FSH017) form the backbone of a reliable rotation. Diagonal twill offers a clean, composed surface, while White Herringbone introduces a subtle micro-chevron texture that adds depth beneath a smooth navy or charcoal suit.

When pairing a shirt with an unstructured blazer or wearing it open-necked without a tie, basket-weave White Oxford (FSH020) and Rose Oxford (FSH021) bring a relaxed, matte texture. For boardroom tailoring and double-breasted suits, we carry four crisp 2-ply stripes: Light Blue Pencil Stripe, Blue Pencil Stripe, Light Blue Candy, and Blue Candy. For weddings and black-tie evenings, we offer White Satin, Natural Satin (a warm off-white tone tailored to harmonize with ivory bridal gowns), Black Satin, and The Tuxedo Shirt — White Twill.

Choosing a collar is about balancing facial proportions, tie knot volume, and jacket lapel width. The Spread Collar and The Cutaway Collar are angled so their points rest cleanly beneath your suit lapels all day, whether worn with a Four-in-Hand tie knot or unbuttoned in the evening. For Oxford shirts and odd jackets, The Button Down anchors the collar roll with small buttons, while the Wing Tip is reserved for black-tie bow ties.

When drafting your shirt pattern, we measure collar circumference, shoulder yoke, chest, waist, seat, body length, and left/right sleeves independently. We also add a 0.5 to 1.0 cm watch allowance on your wristwatch cuff and embroider your personal monogram at no surcharge. Once saved in your digital profile (online or at our showroom on Søndergade 32, 6000 Kolding), re-ordering takes a single click.